I have the aluminum hipster brake and it is a double dump and the case is drilled in the rear
I have spare unmodified cases so that’s not a big deal

I have lowered the two step to 3100 any lower and it a inconsistent dog on the line

I have the tallest that will fit m/t sportsmen radials on front now not a lot of sidewall give in them
Had a set of e/t drag front before very adjustable sidewall still not enough

Can you slow the hit down by changing the 4 link ?

That’s one of the options I’m looking at but I kind of feel they may be an inconsistency waiting to happen
Hence the? About reaction difference going to a sportsman brake I feel and I may be wrong it's the more consistent answer to my problem

Man I wish I had a 4 link David but a ladder bar car :wink:

On a good note that fast reaction should work well on the arm drop at pinks all out in two weeks :lol:

I've seen some really long throw buttons that some comp eliminator cars use. They look kinda goofy, but they work......

Hay Joe You could talk to the guy who built your trans and see if it can be fixed.

I have the same problem in my FED with a pro brake. I was told that pro brakes react around .4 and bracket brakes around .5 which would be perfect for me since I am about -.105 at the first sight of third yellow.

This may sound stupid, but heard of Alan Johnson doing it to get around the rev limiters in top fuel when they came out. He ran an extensive amount of wire to lengthen out the time it took to travel from the rev limiter to the ignition. I have thought of taking a 25' coil of wire and splicing it between the button and the trans brake/two step. Any electrical guys thing that would work. Could you use lengths of wire to tune your reactions times. I don't believe it is against the rules. :roll:

Sure that'll work, but electricty travels at the speed of light, so 18600 ft of wire should equal a tenth of a second. there is no rule against haveing that much wire in your car, but where will you set :P 25 ft, will make no difference.